Friday, 21 May 2010
Medellin
After a long but beautiful bus journey through some amazingly picturesque countryside including a stop at a restaurant with a balcony from which we saw humming birds, woodpeckers and a whole lot of condors, we arrived in Medellin.
I had an aquaintance and good friend that I had met online called Marina on a language learning website (sad I know but its useful for meeting new people to visit when travelling in their country) who had said that if I come to Colombia, to come to Medellin and she'd meet me so I let her know that we would soon be arriving and when I called she said she'd meet us at the bus terminal and sure enough there she was on arrival with a friend called Carolina. Kindly Marina had brought her car and offered to take us with all our bags to a hostel. It was a tight squeeze in her little Renault Clio with 5 people, 3 huge rucksacks, 3 day bags
and a guitar but eventually we managed to squeeze everything in and made our way to Poblado where we found hostel casakiwi a very nice clean, new looking hostel with a large decked balcony, a fantastically clean and modern looking kitchen, a very nice, full sized pool table, a bar and even a tv room that resembled a cinema with a huge tv and 5 tiered rows of sofas. This was most certainly the place we would stay, it looked fantastic and all this for just over a fiver a night! The only thing that let it down was the room which was rather small and cramped with no windows or fan but we werent too bothered as we wouldnt be spending too much time in there anyway apart from when we had to sleep. Once we had checked in and dropped our bags in the room, Marina offered to take us on a city tour and so we accepted, and after quite an extensive drive round the city seeing lots of nice looking places in the dark, we headed to get some food and went back to the hostel. It really was a cool looking city and Fabain summed the roads up as being like something out of being in need for speed. on the drive round I could see even in the dark of nght just how modern and affluent this city was certainly in comparison with Cali! What with it being thursday evening, the bars and clubs in the local area of Poblado were getting busier and noisier and the 3 of us were keen to see some of the famous Medellin beauties (Medellin is famous for fake boobs and beautiful women) but by this time it was about 2am and everything was shutting or not open for too much longer so we decided to have one beer at the bar and call it a night. The next day we woke and decided to do something constructive and get out to see the city so we headed to the aquarium. We walked down to the metro station and took the train down to Universidad.
Again on the train, I could see that this was indeed a well planned, affluent and modern city with a nice mixture of old architecture such as cathedrals and churches as well as new shopping malls and modern looking new buildings such as that at the Universiad. It is hard to say this in a good way but it could be that all the money that came in from the famous drug lord Pablo Escobar (born and died in Medellin), has done alot of good for the local economy! On arrival there, we saw a big modern block of 3 red buildngs alongside each other where there were expositions and scientific games to be played. After messing about on the activities for a little while, we headed to the impressive acquarium, seeing some nice Amazonian fish including the biggest freshwater fish in the world, and seeing some nice brightly coloured salt water fish. Next we headed into the reptile and amphibian house which was also cool with many species of snake, frogs and spiders mainly all from Colombia!
Heading back, we agreed to meet Marina and Caro again and after studying the tourist map, we decided to head to Pueblito Paisas, a tiny little square of old colonial buidlings high up on a hill overlooking the city. This was quite a sight at night with all the lights in the valley and dotted all over the surrounding mountains with some pleasant looking eateries with balconies overlooking the city and a pleasant courtyard with a fountain in the middle. There was also a nice little church and some interesting little rooms that you could look into which were very old with old fashioned bedrooms and kitchens!
After a few photos we decided to hit the bars. After a few drinks including shots of the famous national anis based drink (Aguardientes) and some food (I had arepas, a corn based tortilla full of cheese with dip), and then some more shots, we headed to a nearby club which on entry was rather strange looking with a big four poster bed near the entrance and strange things hanging from the ceiling. After attempting a little salsa and having a few more drinks, it was time to go home as we were all tired from a rather eventful day!
The next day was a rather lazy and hungover day involving a trip to the supermarket and a walk around the local area. I was fast falling in love with this city, it was so modern and beautiful with a real young and vibrant feel to it and far from the dirty, smelly and polluted city of Cali! I guess it also helped knowing people from the city who could take us to all the best places! That evening we met the girls again and went for a drink although they didn't stay out long and so I got a fairly early night. The next day we met a nice French guy at the hostel called Rafael who told us of a weed march in the centre of town. Since I hadn't yet been to Medellin central (apart from the visit to the acquarium),
myself, Fabian and a group of other guys decided we'd all go along. In our group we had English, French, Australian, Swiss and Colombian guys which was a great mixture of nationalities and cultures and so off we went to find the march. I wasn't intending on smoking anything but as soon as you get near the march you are passively smoking due to the sheer volume of people smoking all around! It was a crazy experience and certainly a strange way to get to know the centre of a city with the police marching in front, stoppping traffic and everyone getting high behind them!
I'd never done anything like it and it was certainly an experience and a nice way to see a big city and take photos without the risk of getting run over! After a while of walking, we arrived at Parque de la luz (park of lights), a very strange but cool square with many metal white poles sticking out of the ground, very modern looking and for me cool because it was different to anything I'd seen before. We had previously seen this
place on the city tour we did with the girls which on passing, the girls laughed as it is called Park of Lights but there are no lights. Nevertheless, I still found it a cool place and got some quite quirky photos of the place.
After evertone had settled here, myself, Sergio (a nice Colombian guy I had met from our hostel) and Fabian headed to find something to drink and I got some more nice shots of the city just as the sun was setting. After sitting around the square for a while, we decided to head back to the hostel. The city was fast becoming my favourite city I'd been to in South America and the hostel was fast becoming my favourite hostel I'd stayed in despite the room! On return, we discovered another great feature of the hostel was that it had a roof terrace and small pool which was great for taking the sun during the day and great for chilling out on at night not to mention the nice views of the city!
The only downside was the amount of stairs you needed to climb to get up there and also it could do with having a bar up there so you didnt have to keep going up and down to get drinks. As well as this terrace, on the floor below was an area with hammocks for simply chilling out and with a power supply and wifi, you could play your tunes and sleep there if you wanted as it was under shelter in case it rained and was always warm enough at night to sleep out. That evening was the hostel managers 30th birthday (an american guy) so all the staff put up balloons and were in a partying mood with a band playing too. After a while partying at the hostel, Marina turned up and Jay, myself and a nice guy called Dom who was half Welsh and half French but spoke with an English accent decided to head out to a bar where Marina's colleagues were drinking. This turned out to be a good night with plenty of salsa dancing, popcorn and aguardiente and after dancing a little with Marina she paid me a nice compliment when she told me I danced just like a Colombian which I was chuffed about.
The next day, Marina called to see if I wanted to go to parque arves (an ecological park in the mountains above Medellin) on the cable car so naturally I accepted as it sounded fun, I love ecology and there wasn't much else going on it being a sunday and all so she picked me up and off we went. We dropped the car, got a train to the end of the line almost and then took the cable car.
It was a beautiful ascent up the mountain, albeit going over some very temporary housing, it was still revealing a fantastic view with every few metres we gained in altitude. It was indeed a fantastic journey with a great view of Medellin central as one approached the top of the mountain and then a super view over the dense forest below us at the top of the mountain. Unfortunately on arrival at the end of the cable car,
it was already around 3.30 and so we only had a couple of hours until the last one left so we quickly began to make our way towards the ecological park. Surprisingly Marina told me that she had never been there even though she'd lived in the city most of her life and it was one of the main attractions of the city so she was unaware of where to go or how to get there. We began walking through some beautiful forest and continued to follow the signs up and up and further and further up the road for around an hour and a half until we eventually got to what looked like a park but we were only at the back.
Marina suggested we climbed through a gap in the barbed wire which at first I thought she was joking about but then she took off her necklace and thrust that and her bag into my hands and began getting on her hands and knees and clambering through which I found hilarious! So through I climbed and into the park we were! Little did I know we needed to pay for the park, until she told me inside so I felt like a real rebel! Since it was already by this time nearly 5, we had a quick 10 minute walk around a tiny part of the park and had to quickly leave again! We began walking back knowing for a fact we weren't
going to make it back. This was a clear problem as we had no way of getting back down othr than calling a taxi which would have cost a lot and there seemed to be no other buses going bus so perhaps they had all finished! After about 5 minutes of walking and arguing about who was to blame for all this, a guy on a small moped pulled up behind us and stopped to try and sell us some chicken or cheese from his box of food. Marina just waved him away but I said my friend we don't want your food, we just need a lift down to the cable car before it closes in 20 minutes so he said jump on and the 2 of us just about manged to get on behind him and we got down in time to find a huge queue of people waiting but we certainly wouldn't have made it without my smart thinking! This was enough fun for me, we had done alot of walking and getting back I went straight to bed after chilling out in the hammock for a while with some of the guys from the hostel.
One guy who I got on well with and liked alot was a guy called Reuben who was a special effects technician for films and had worked on films such as Harry Potter and Wallace and Gromit and showed me some interesting things with his software which was pretty fascinating. He has the ambition of setting up a special effects school in Colombia as there is nothing of the sort as yet and needed contacts so I said I'd look for some for him but it did prove hard to find any! Lucky guy was off to New York to work in a couple of days but he said he'd rather be chilling in Ecuador which is what he had planned to do. He was certainly talented and a nice chap to get to know!
The next day, our good old friend Will turned up at the hostel having been slightly behind us on our route up so it was good to see him again. Fabian had chatted up a girl he met outside the mini supermarket and so he brought her to our hostel and then we went for lunch with Reuben, Jay, Fabian, Will this girl (Alixon) and a friend of hers went for lunch at a bar called Orleans where they sold interesting coloured beers, between us we had green and red which just tasted like normal beer but just looked different! Very strange! Will and I then decided to do a proper tour of the central as I hadnt seen it properly and obviously Will hadnt seen it at all having just arrived so we took the train to centro and got the nice photos I wanted. Especially I wanted one of the nice checkered buidling which I was always passing in the train but never stopping there.
After a while of walking around and snapping we headed back and got ready for a night out at a karaoke bar which was also Reuben's last night.
This ended up being a good night although at some point I lost everybody and ended up having to go home on my home finding the hostel with surprising ease!
The following morning we woke a little later than usual and made the decision to go to the park. Although I had already been I decided to join them as I had never managed to actually get in and appreciate the place. I'm extremely glad I went, we had great fun on zip lines, in a butterfly house,
in an insect museum and rowing on a lake not to mention enjoying the beautiful weather and flora and fauna all around us.
For some reason Jay didn't come along claiming it was too hot (an Aussie complaining about the heat??) but when we got back we decided to get on it as it was his last night too!
This was rather sad for me as he'd been my travelling buddy on off for the last couple of months all the way from La Paz up to here in Colombia! After a good fun night out in a club called Babylon getting suitably wasted, we headed back.
The next day I went for lunch with Marina and by the time I had returned, Jay had left! I didnt even get to say goodbye to him and it turned out he hadnt paid a cent! Oh well! Shame to see the aussie c££t go but I'm sure we'll meet again one day!
That evening we met a nice guy from South Korea, the first I'd ever met called Kim and he, Will, Marina and Carolina all went out for drinks. Fabian had disappeared earlier in the day and was nowehre to be seen so the 5 of us went out and had rather a tame but yet still enjoyable evening involving cocktails.
The next day Marina came over and she took us to a mirador (eventually after directions from many people) which was rather a beautiful view over the city and we got there just before sunset so witnessed a rather impressive sunset with some amazing cloud formations and thunder storms in the distance. On return to the hostel, Will told us that there was a good techno DJ playing at the Forum club called Ambivalent so Marina, myself Will and Fabian headed there. On arrival we found out it was 40,000 pesos to get in (about £14) which was too expensive for the girls so they decided not to go in. Perhaps in hindsight we should have stayed with them but I'm glad we went in as it was a great night with great music and the first time I'd been properly clubbing for a long time, definitely since being in South America.
We did stay til quite early in the morning so unfortunately the next day was a bit of a write off as we were sleeping for a lot of it. Will and I decided we were going to leave to Cartagena the next day so we got up early to go and book our bus tickets which we booked for 5.30pm but after speaking to Marina, she suggested we went to El Penol, the biggest rock in the world according to them although Jay insisted it was Ayers Rock in Australia when she had told us about it previously. It was already 3pm so I told her there was no way we'd have time as it was an hour and a half drive away so she called up the bus company who told her it was fine to just change the bus ticket to the later departure of 10.30pm which gave us plenty of time so we agreed to go along. So off we went, Marina, myself, Will, Fabian and Carolina on a fun little road trip to the rock. After about an hour and a half of some suicidal and dangerous driving giving us all some heart in the mouth moments, we finally arrived at the rock and it was certainly a sight that I was glad to see.
It was an immense lith sticking high out of the ground and on entry to the back of the rock, a brick staircase came into view like stitches up it's back.
We began climbing and after about 20 minutes taking pictures of the lovely views all around we reached the top of the rock. As we climbed we were able to see that it wasn't all just about the rock but the amazing views one could see all around of beautiful lakes, islands and green hills and we were all glad we had come.
Even when we reached the top, there was a castle like building at the top which one could climb to get even higher and have an even better view and from the we watched the sun begin to set and got some fantastic pictures. This was a very enjoyable day and well worth the trip out from Medellin, despite the distance and hairy moments on the road. Returning to the hostel at around 9.30 we had an hour til our bus in which time we grabbed some dinner and then off we went on the long 14 hour journey to Cartagena.
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
COLOMBIA
Cali
Arriving in Cali at around 8am, our priority was to get a nice cheap hotel and change some money from Dollars to Pesos and then go and explore a little of this seemingly very large city. Asking the taxi driver to take us to a cheap but nice hotel, he proceeded to take us to Palma Nueva, with pcitures of naked women all over the place, this place seemed to be as Jay noted perhaps a place where men took prostitutes back (it even had a toliet roll box next to the bed for cleaning up!) and it felt pretty scummy and dirty, totally incomparable with the greatness of Casa Olimpia but it was going to have to do for one night before we moved on to Bogota or Medellin. ON walking around for a while, it seemed like an extremely hectic city with so much noise, so many people and so much pollution and close heat that at times it was unbearable! The streets were full of markets and hustle and bustle and the city was just a little bit of a mess and could do with a good clear up! Admidst all the chaos however there were some rather nice buildings to see.
On arrival at the square in our desperate hunt for something edible, there were some nice surrounding important looking buildings as well as a picturesque church on the corner and in the square itself were palms surrounding a statue of whom I'm not sure as we didnt get over to it as we were just too hungry to be looking at historic monuments.
After more walking without success in finding anything half decent looking to eat, we decided upon a greasy looking open air cafe serving deep fried everything and just ended up with some sort of deep fried cheesy dough balls which weren't actually as bad as they looked and did the job of filling us up for a little while at least! Continuing on our tour of the city, we were told San Antonio was worth checking out but proved to be more noisy, polluted, dirty roads although there was a nice dome on a church but nothing more to be impressed by. We headed back and continued over the river where there were a couple of pretty white bridges (although still riddled with litter, dirt and people selling things) and in the distance a very pretty cathedral/church of which style I'd not seen before in South America and almost looked like something out of a fairy tale with it's white colour and numerous spires although not grandiose in size, it was certainly worth a picture or two!
Beyond this was the tallest building on the horizon and by far the tallest building in the city, the Torre de Cali Hotel which we were told we could go up to the terrace at the top to see the city and take photos which we did and it did indeed prove to be worth it with fantastic views across the city which from one side seemed simply to go on and on forever into the horizon!
It was certainly good to get the aerial view in order to get your bearings of where things were around the city. After a little more walking, we found a nice area with restaurants and bars. We stopped in a restaurant and had the baby beef which was fantastic quality and almost as good as Argentean steak! Very tasty indeed although I'm not sure why they insist on putting a fried banana with every dish they serve up, I just can't see the appeal of those things! Apparently this was the place to come out at night for drinks but becuase it was only wednesday it wouldn't be so busy. After lunch we returned to our hotel to rest a while and then headed back to the area and it was pretty dead as we had been told it would so after sharing a beer tower, we headed back to the hotel for an early night with the intention of getting an early bus to Bogota or Medellin.
The next morning we got up around 9am and decided to head to Medellin as that was the next bus. Now on the 8 hour journey and seeing some rather beautiful countryside with argricultural fields and grass with the backdrop of mountains and many palm trees and billowing cumulus clouds. SOmething tells me Medellin is going to be rather hot as we get closer and closer to the Caribbean!
ECUADOR
Quito
After travelling for a good while, getting stamps, changing buses in Huayquillas, getting very bitten by mosquitoes and sharing the 14 hour bus journey with a bunch of loud and somewhat annoying Ecuadrians who wanted to stop every 5 minutes, we finally arrived in Quito. Wow, back in Quito after 10 years was real nostalgia for me, I couldn't wait to explore and see the places I had known last time! Sure enough, it was all still there, No Bar, Papaya Net, Casa Olimpia, Mongos.
Was really amazingto see it all again after so long. I remembered that Casa Olimpia, the hostel we had stayed in last time I was there was a great hostel (more like a hotel than a hostel) at hostel prices too so we went there. It was jus as I remembered it, big comfy beds, tv, fridge and even balcony with great views over the city!
Perfect, was so glad to be back again and arriving on a friday night, it was guranteed that we would be having another great night in No Bar no doubt! After eating breakfast again in the good old Magic Bean where we frequented many times before and wondering around trying to regain my bearings of this great city, I went to find Reina Victoria Pub (the place where we would all meet up to see Caz our gap challenge supervisor) but to my disappointment it was closed and on returning later although it was all exactly the same, the management had changed and Caz and Baz (her Kiwi husband) no longer worked there but it was great just to go back in ther again and look around and think this is where I watched the Tyson Lewis fight, this is where I watched England, Brasil in the world cup back in 2002!
So many memories! I told the guys about Mongos buffet, all you can eat, just fill your bowl with whatever you want cooked, we headed ther to eat and it tasted just as good as last time! I was just reliving everything I had done before and was loving it! As night began to creep up on us, the city bgan to bus with music, lights and people and I was so excited about going out! We were slap bang in the heart of the busiest street and the music was booming from every bar! Fabian the player that he is wasted no time in chatting the girls up, he is a bit of a hunk (a guy likened him to Cristiano Ronaldo earlier in the day!) and he speaks good SPanish so there was no problem for him pulling the ladies! I think he mustve had about 10 numbers by the end of night! The most hilarious thing was that before we went out he said "oh i just realised something, its my 21st birhday today" I was like whaaat! How could you just remember that so that was even more reason to celebrate! I told him if you tell them in No Bar and prove it with ID, I guarantee we'll get champagne which indeed we did and he got her number too!
Having such a good drink fuelled night wrote off the next day pretty much and it didnt help it woulndt stop raining so most of it was spent in bed although I did get out and take some nice pics of the cathdral and some nice areas I remembered from before. THey had redeveloped an area called Mariscol (or gringolandia) which I was very impressed with, lots of nice bars, restaurants, cafes and a nice moving sculpture of a bird in the centre. I especially liked the bar called Chelsea for obvious reasons.
Unfortunately I had missed the game against Liverpool which we cruised to a 2-0 victory so I was happy and I saw all the highlights, looks like we played very well! After more partying and unfortunately not as much sightseeing as I would have liked, it was time to leave. We didn't do the city tour which I was gutted about and for the
second time in Ecuador I was missing out on the Galapagos islands which in itself a crime but I just dont have the time or the money so 3rd time lucky for sure! We were in a rush to get to Colombia, everyone had good things to say about the place that I met who had been there despite warnings of dangers it's much safer now apparently and I'm looking forward to it! Unfortunately Ecuador was just a flying visit really but I still hold a place in my heart for the place as I have so many fond memories from being here last time but now it's time to leave and head North. Will be sad passing by Guallupe and Fundacion Golodrinas where I spent months working but we don't really havet ime to stop. Ibarra (a city in the north of Ecuador) is our first stop where I went many times before so that'll bring fond memories too! Just a shame I don't
have more time and money to stay longer but Bogota is calling!
After travelling for a good while, getting stamps, changing buses in Huayquillas, getting very bitten by mosquitoes and sharing the 14 hour bus journey with a bunch of loud and somewhat annoying Ecuadrians who wanted to stop every 5 minutes, we finally arrived in Quito. Wow, back in Quito after 10 years was real nostalgia for me, I couldn't wait to explore and see the places I had known last time! Sure enough, it was all still there, No Bar, Papaya Net, Casa Olimpia, Mongos.
Was really amazingto see it all again after so long. I remembered that Casa Olimpia, the hostel we had stayed in last time I was there was a great hostel (more like a hotel than a hostel) at hostel prices too so we went there. It was jus as I remembered it, big comfy beds, tv, fridge and even balcony with great views over the city!
Perfect, was so glad to be back again and arriving on a friday night, it was guranteed that we would be having another great night in No Bar no doubt! After eating breakfast again in the good old Magic Bean where we frequented many times before and wondering around trying to regain my bearings of this great city, I went to find Reina Victoria Pub (the place where we would all meet up to see Caz our gap challenge supervisor) but to my disappointment it was closed and on returning later although it was all exactly the same, the management had changed and Caz and Baz (her Kiwi husband) no longer worked there but it was great just to go back in ther again and look around and think this is where I watched the Tyson Lewis fight, this is where I watched England, Brasil in the world cup back in 2002!
So many memories! I told the guys about Mongos buffet, all you can eat, just fill your bowl with whatever you want cooked, we headed ther to eat and it tasted just as good as last time! I was just reliving everything I had done before and was loving it! As night began to creep up on us, the city bgan to bus with music, lights and people and I was so excited about going out! We were slap bang in the heart of the busiest street and the music was booming from every bar! Fabian the player that he is wasted no time in chatting the girls up, he is a bit of a hunk (a guy likened him to Cristiano Ronaldo earlier in the day!) and he speaks good SPanish so there was no problem for him pulling the ladies! I think he mustve had about 10 numbers by the end of night! The most hilarious thing was that before we went out he said "oh i just realised something, its my 21st birhday today" I was like whaaat! How could you just remember that so that was even more reason to celebrate! I told him if you tell them in No Bar and prove it with ID, I guarantee we'll get champagne which indeed we did and he got her number too!
Having such a good drink fuelled night wrote off the next day pretty much and it didnt help it woulndt stop raining so most of it was spent in bed although I did get out and take some nice pics of the cathdral and some nice areas I remembered from before. THey had redeveloped an area called Mariscol (or gringolandia) which I was very impressed with, lots of nice bars, restaurants, cafes and a nice moving sculpture of a bird in the centre. I especially liked the bar called Chelsea for obvious reasons.
Unfortunately I had missed the game against Liverpool which we cruised to a 2-0 victory so I was happy and I saw all the highlights, looks like we played very well! After more partying and unfortunately not as much sightseeing as I would have liked, it was time to leave. We didn't do the city tour which I was gutted about and for the
second time in Ecuador I was missing out on the Galapagos islands which in itself a crime but I just dont have the time or the money so 3rd time lucky for sure! We were in a rush to get to Colombia, everyone had good things to say about the place that I met who had been there despite warnings of dangers it's much safer now apparently and I'm looking forward to it! Unfortunately Ecuador was just a flying visit really but I still hold a place in my heart for the place as I have so many fond memories from being here last time but now it's time to leave and head North. Will be sad passing by Guallupe and Fundacion Golodrinas where I spent months working but we don't really havet ime to stop. Ibarra (a city in the north of Ecuador) is our first stop where I went many times before so that'll bring fond memories too! Just a shame I don't
have more time and money to stay longer but Bogota is calling!
Monday, 10 May 2010
Mancora
Mancora
After a fantastic coach journey (my best yet so well done Cruz del Sur), including beds, leg room, good meals, movies and even bingo, we arrived in Mancora. Arriving in Mancora was a real blast from the past, I had been here nearly a decade ago and not much had changed! Perhaps a few more gringos and busier beaches with marquees,tables and chairs etc but other than that very little!
The new hostel, Loki had been built (right next to the Sol y Mar hostel where I had styed last time) and that was where we were staying. This was a very nice hostel (a beautiful gleaming white builing facing the sea with balconies and a large swimming pool and bar). I just couldnt wait to get my trunks on and get down to the beach! THe new guys we were travelling with turned out to be legnedary guys and we all got on like brothers so it was so nice to be in their company! After a couple of days of relaxation, sun bathing, sun, sea, sand,
swimming, drinking, playing beach football and going to a rather fun full moon party (although not on the damn beach) but good all the same, it was time we left this paradise and contiuned heading North.
Since time for Jay and I were short on time and I had seen the majority of Ecuador already last time I travelled to Ecuador, we decided just to head straight to the capital, Qutio. I just couldn't wait to get back to good old Ecuador and back to good old Quito, one of my favourite cities in the world! Unfortunately Will couldn't come with us as he was heading to see someone else in Peru first so it was just Jay, Fabian and myself. Wohoo, back to good old Ecuador, I can't wait! :)
Lima
Lima

On arrival in Lima, we hadnt booked a hostal so a nice taxi driver who spoke good English and was very friendly took us to a hotel in Miraflores. Unfortunately there was no sun and it was rather misty (one of Dad's motives of coming here was also to go swimming in the Pacific) but the beaches weren't great and neither the weather!
This didn't perturb Dad and after a delicious meal of Octopus and Seabass (although it gave me a funny tummy afterwards) Dad was insistant that we went to the beach. During lunch, the nice owner of the place invited us to see him playing in his band with his brother which we accepted. After lunch, we walked around Miraflores.
Miraflores (the coastal, touristy and very modern part of Lima) is a very beautiful place with some lovely parks looking over the sea, the Park of Love in particular being the nicest with a huge statue of a man embracing and kissing a woman and some lovely curvy walls with mosaic tiles with patterns and words drawn and written in tiles all overlooking the sea.
Since Dad was so insitent that he was swimming in the sea I went along with him and to my surprise people were sunbating but noone swimming and to their surprise off stripped Dad white as a sheet and he ran down to the sea everyone looking thinking whats this crazy gringo doing. After getting rolled
onto his ass a few times he had had enough and had satisfied his desire to swim in the pacific. After a little more walking and exploring, we went to the hotel to get ready to see our new friend in his band. THis was a lovely performance of 3 accoustic guitars, a drummer and a keyboard and was true latin music which I was trying to translate the lyrics to Dad but some of it was too hard for me to get. THey even did a fantastic rendition for their last song of Oye Como Va by Santana which was superb. ALl in all a very enjoyable evening!
The next day, Jay and Dean, the guys I had met and travelled with in La Paz contacted me to tell me that they were heading to Lima so after lunch, Dad and I met them and we all decided to go and see central Lima.
For some silly reason we decided to walk it as it didnt look that far on the map and it literally took about 2 hours! THis was good excercise but tiring and after all that, my camera ran out of battery so I couldn't even get snaps. THe main square plaza major was quite beatiful with some lovely colonial buildings and lots of nicely painted yellow buildings with ornate wooden facades and a lovely cathedral and palace.
I was glad we'd made the effort to go there. We decided it was definitely a plan to go back in a taxi and I agreed to meet Jay and Dean later for drinks as Dad had met a Canadian couple who he was going for dinner with.
I headed to Pariwana (the national bird of Peru with red and white feathers hence the red and white flag) and after a couple of drinks there at happy hour, we headed to calle Pizzas (the road with bars, restaurants, pubs etc) where we met some nice girls who took us to the mall on the coast which was a very nice modern area full of bars, pubs, restaurants, clubs (covered over and hidden by a beautiful park so not to spoil the natural scenery or beauty of the coastline). Here we went to a great pub with a live band and after that we went to the club below and had lots of fun dancing and drinking and playing with the hundreds of balloons that the'd throw on everyone!
After another day and night in Lima, it was time to say goodbye to Dad and to Dean who were both off home to UK and Australia respectively and Jay and I agreed to head North to Mancora (where I had been before) to lie on the beach for a while. At the terminal, we met Will and Fabian, an ENglish and Swiss guy respectively. Jay had previously met Will in Cusco and so it was nice to have an extra couple of guys who were all heading in the same direction as us.
On arrival in Lima, we hadnt booked a hostal so a nice taxi driver who spoke good English and was very friendly took us to a hotel in Miraflores. Unfortunately there was no sun and it was rather misty (one of Dad's motives of coming here was also to go swimming in the Pacific) but the beaches weren't great and neither the weather!
This didn't perturb Dad and after a delicious meal of Octopus and Seabass (although it gave me a funny tummy afterwards) Dad was insistant that we went to the beach. During lunch, the nice owner of the place invited us to see him playing in his band with his brother which we accepted. After lunch, we walked around Miraflores.
Miraflores (the coastal, touristy and very modern part of Lima) is a very beautiful place with some lovely parks looking over the sea, the Park of Love in particular being the nicest with a huge statue of a man embracing and kissing a woman and some lovely curvy walls with mosaic tiles with patterns and words drawn and written in tiles all overlooking the sea.
Since Dad was so insitent that he was swimming in the sea I went along with him and to my surprise people were sunbating but noone swimming and to their surprise off stripped Dad white as a sheet and he ran down to the sea everyone looking thinking whats this crazy gringo doing. After getting rolled
onto his ass a few times he had had enough and had satisfied his desire to swim in the pacific. After a little more walking and exploring, we went to the hotel to get ready to see our new friend in his band. THis was a lovely performance of 3 accoustic guitars, a drummer and a keyboard and was true latin music which I was trying to translate the lyrics to Dad but some of it was too hard for me to get. THey even did a fantastic rendition for their last song of Oye Como Va by Santana which was superb. ALl in all a very enjoyable evening!
The next day, Jay and Dean, the guys I had met and travelled with in La Paz contacted me to tell me that they were heading to Lima so after lunch, Dad and I met them and we all decided to go and see central Lima.
For some silly reason we decided to walk it as it didnt look that far on the map and it literally took about 2 hours! THis was good excercise but tiring and after all that, my camera ran out of battery so I couldn't even get snaps. THe main square plaza major was quite beatiful with some lovely colonial buildings and lots of nicely painted yellow buildings with ornate wooden facades and a lovely cathedral and palace.
I was glad we'd made the effort to go there. We decided it was definitely a plan to go back in a taxi and I agreed to meet Jay and Dean later for drinks as Dad had met a Canadian couple who he was going for dinner with.
I headed to Pariwana (the national bird of Peru with red and white feathers hence the red and white flag) and after a couple of drinks there at happy hour, we headed to calle Pizzas (the road with bars, restaurants, pubs etc) where we met some nice girls who took us to the mall on the coast which was a very nice modern area full of bars, pubs, restaurants, clubs (covered over and hidden by a beautiful park so not to spoil the natural scenery or beauty of the coastline). Here we went to a great pub with a live band and after that we went to the club below and had lots of fun dancing and drinking and playing with the hundreds of balloons that the'd throw on everyone!
After another day and night in Lima, it was time to say goodbye to Dad and to Dean who were both off home to UK and Australia respectively and Jay and I agreed to head North to Mancora (where I had been before) to lie on the beach for a while. At the terminal, we met Will and Fabian, an ENglish and Swiss guy respectively. Jay had previously met Will in Cusco and so it was nice to have an extra couple of guys who were all heading in the same direction as us.
Friday, 7 May 2010
PERU
Peru
Cusco and Macchu Piccu
Meeting Dad off the plane was a happy and yet strange occasion for me, it was great to see him again but felt strange that I would be backpacking with my father for the next couple of weeks! It was great to see him when he arrived and lamost didn't seem real that he had come all the way to Peru to see me for a holiday! We headed in a taxi towards our hostel straight through the amazing PLaza de las Armas where the stands not just one but two frankly exquisite religious edifices, one being the grand cathedral and one being a beautiful Spanish style colonial church.
The taxi driver told us he couldnt go any further so we had to walk from the square as the road was blocked (there were wooden beams and planks holding the walls and buildings up after all the flooding and landslides in January). Walking up this hill towards our hostel was a real struggle and Dad was breathless within moments. It was especially hard for him as he had never been at such altitude although for me it was ok as I had come from La Paz but it was still hard work for me! He was obviously going to be jetlagged and needed to acclimatise so after we had a bite to eat he slept and Iwent out to explore a little.
From the main square I had seen a big white statue of Jesus Christ, similar to Christ the Redeemer on top of the hill overlooking the city and had decided to try and get up there so I could get a good view of the city so I headed up the hill behind the hostal and after a little while I arrived at a viewpoint next to a church which provided a splendid view but still wasnt quite high enough. I saw a typically AMerican looking gringo heading towards me with a smile on his face, music in his ears and backpack on his back. He approached and asked if I was ok so I told him I was trying to get up to the Cristo Blanco. He was a nice friendly guy telling me he was a tour guide for Americans there and that I should go up the steep path through the houses if I wanted to avoid paying to get in the national park of Saqsayhuaman by going the road way so I took his advice and went up that way. It turned out to be a hard and tiresome climb with my flip flops but worth it when I finally reached the Christ statue.
The view was pretty spectacular with Cusco being in a bowl with houses as far as the eye could see, 360 degrees around the mountain slopes and at the bottom of the bowl, the
spectacular main square and catherdrals. I had no idea it was such a big place! I thought to myself that Id get Dad to do exactly the same as some training for the Inca Trail so I went up again with him the next day. He had to stop many times but made it so I was pretty proud of him! In the evenings Dad would go to bed pretty early and I'd go out. On the first night I headed to Loki to meet the nice girls I had travelled on the bus with from Copacabana. We stayed at the Loki for a while, had some good veggie soup, initiated drinking at happy hour and proceeded to play card drinking games with 2 English guys the girls had met at the hostel. I was fine at shithead but as soon as the game changed to one I didnt know how to play I lost. The problem here was that there was a forefeit for losing so I ended up having to tell a girl at the bar an awful chat up line (getting her to touch my tshirt and asking what type of material she thought it was and telling her it was boyfriend material) and she actually thought I was chatting her up for real and seemed quite interested! THen I ended up having to strip down to my boxers awith one of the other guys and running round the courtyard!
After these escapades we headed to Mama Africa in the main square which was good fun and I didnt get in til about 4.30! Dad and I had 2 days in Cusco before the trail so we visited a few museums and had some good and some rather mediocre meals. One meal included Dad trying guinea pig which was pretty revolting looking like a huge great big rat and put me off my food! I very much liked Cusco, it was a wonderful place although the constant annoyance of people trying to sell you things and coax you into their restaurant got rather tedious after a while.
So after 3 nights in Cusco we headed off early in the morning to walk the world famous Inca Trail. Our guide Martinez was a real character and total legend and he was there exclusively just for Dad and I although we had 2 other English guys in our group who had their own guide too but a group of 4 was great for us. The first day of walking was fairly easy with spectacular views and beautiful flowers and birds such as humming birds and cute little sparrows chirping away. We arrived at the camp site after a few hours and set up camp with a beautiful view of the valley and the snow capped white Andes in the distance.
I wasnt the biggest fan of camping and tents but I was quite looking forward to camping and the food provided by the porters was fanstatic with 3 courses being served up out of their tent at every mealtime! Each day was a struggle due to the altitude, steep gradients and even coming down felt just as hard at times as going up due to big drops between each step causing particular strain on the knees! After each exhausting but at the same time exhlirating day sleep in a cold tent in a sleeping back was a welcome thought although at times it did get very cold and so it was necessary to wear many layers in the sleeping bag just to get snug and warm enough to sleep. On the 4th morning we woke at 4 to get to the sun gates before sun rise. Unfortunatwely on arrival there it was too misty too see Machu Piccu from there so we continued down and arrived on the terraces of Machu Piccu without even realising as the clouds were so low but as Martinez continued to tell us about the place and guide us around, the clouds began to rise as it warmed and we began to see the full glory and beauty of the place and we got the money shots of the picture postcards that everyone recognises.
It was beautiful and all the pain and effort in walking was now easily worth it. After an hour or so of walking around and Martinez explaining the history and significance of the place, I decided I was going to climb Wayna PIccu which was also a big struggle as it was an almost vertical climb at times but again well worth the effort as it was simply a sublime view from up there looking down on city of Machu PIccu and all around huge mountains, quite a breathtaking view!
Once we'd had a good look around and taken in the beauty and mystery of the place we headed to Auguascalientes in the bus which is the nearest city to the Incan ruins.
We stayed in rather a nice hotel right next to the torrid and turbulent River Urubamba which was in itself a marvel! It was so nice to be sleeping in a bed again after 4 nights in a tent and after bathing in the natural hot springs in town, I returned and after a cocktail with Dad at happy hour I slept like a baby!
The next day it was time to head back to Cusco and so we took the Inca Rail train back to where we had started the trail and then from there we met our driver who took us part of the way back to Cusco (the police stopped us half way and asked for his license but he had no papers at all) so we caught a ride with another guy who turned out to be a very nice guy and even stopped at places for sight seeing on the way and explained a little about the area to us. On return to Cusco, Dad and I decided that since my plan was head North that he'd accompany me to Lima and pay for my flight there which was very generous as it was
either a 24 hour bus journey through the mountains or an hours flight. I was very much looking forward to seeing Lima, the captial of Peru and the capital of the Spanish colony for 200 years! After a last supper of guinea pig and another good sleep in the nice Walk On Inn hostal, it was time to leave the beautiful city of Cusco.
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